It was a “dark, evil wave” that almost killed him, but for Australian surfer Kerby Brown, riding this 40-foot monster in his own backyard was one of the highlights of his surfing career.  Local surfers discovered the break — the exact location of which they want to keep secret — after deep-sea fisherman alerted them to the amazing waves they had seen about 9 miles off the coast.  He said he got pulled so far underwater he feared he would drown, but miraculously paddled away with only torn shoulder muscles. “I went straight over the lip and did a few somersaults, and my arm felt like it got ripped out of the socket,” he said.  “My leggie [leg rope] snapped and I got pushed super deep, when I opened my eyes under the water and couldn’t see the surface, I was so deep down."



If you want the ultimate, you need to be willing to make the ultimate sacrifice. I like the people at Jones Beach on Long Island that surf. The waves are about 3 feet, and they all have "I'd rather be surfing" bumper stickers. See, if the ocean was just hard core moving water, I'd dig it. But the fish? Oh, hell no. I honestly think we know more about space then we do about the ocean. I don't need to be getting eaten be some Portuguese man of war. Don't believe me? Crocodile Hunter Steve Irwin. This guy did the craziest stunts on land. Putting his head in a crocs mouth, riding a hippo like a horse, swinging from trees with monkeys, walking the streets of New York dressed the way he dresses. How does he die? On a snorkeling trip. Yeah, I'll tell you what. Enjoy the ocean, I want the ultimate, but I'm not willing to pay the ultimate sacrifice. Especially when my ultimate is a Elisha Cuthbert and Mila Kunis....at the same time.

http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,449101,00.html